Name: Tracy
Message: My question is- Is it safe to dye cotton pre-fold diapers? I mean, is it safe for the baby to wear the dyed diapers? If so, is there a minimum age on this? I want to dye newborn diapers and matching t-shirts. Also, I'm 5 months pregnant with twins- I'm thinking of going with one of the liquid dyes for added safety- is there one you recommend over others? I'd like to do some vibrant colors- fuschia, purple, turquoise, green, a more basic blue, a rosey brown...which dye do you think will give me the best results here?
Thank you for your time!

The safest dyes for use on baby clothing are fiber reactive dyes, such as Procion MX or Remazol dyes. They must be applied properly, using soda ash (or another high-pH chemical) as a fixative to make the dye bond permanently to the cotton, and washed out thoroughly, using an initial rinse with cool water and then two or more washings with hot water, until no unattached dye is left in the fabric. To test whether the washing has been adequate, dampen the dyed item and press it between two white cloths with a hot iron; if any dye transfer occurs, wash the fabric again in the hottest water available, preferably at least 140°F, until the fabric passes the test.

Properly applied Remazol dyes have been certified for use on clothing for babies of all ages by the Oeko-tex 100 [PDF link] certification used in Europe. I am certain that Procion MX dyes are equally safe when used properly according to the usual recipes, but I do not have a literature reference handy to prove this with. I dyed my own babies' clothing with Procion MX dyes, though I did not dye the diapers themselves.

I strongly recommend against the use of all-purpose dye for baby clothes or any other clothing in which it is important for the dye to remain firmly attached to the fabric. I feel that fiber reactive dyes are safer for baby clothing than all-purpose and direct dyes, though I don't have a literature reference to prove this, either. Reactive dyes are easier to use than all-purpose dyes, brighter in color, much less expensive in the long run, and much longer-lasting. 

If you want to use liquid dyes, the ones I have most experience with are PRO Chemical & Dye's Liquid Fiber Reactive dyes, which are the Remazol type of dye. I have been using these dyes and enjoying the convenience of the liquid dye very much. They are fixed with a high pH, like Procion MX dyes, using soda ash. The only difference is that you must let the dyes set at somewhat warmer temperatures. Where Procion MX dyes work best at 80°F to 105°F, but work adequately outside of that range as long as the temperature is at least 70°F, the Remazol dyes prefer a temperature range of 104°F to 140°F. The higher end of this range is the temperature of standard hot water heaters in the US, though many people turn their water heaters down to 120°F to reduce the risk of scald injury, after they have children. It is convenient to turn the water heater back while dyeing. Or, you can warm your dye reaction in many other ways, which ever is most convenient for you. You can mix your Remazol dyes with water at room temperature, apply it with soda ash or sodium silicate (PRO Fix LHF) to the garments, then place them in a warm place overnight to allow the dye to react with the fiber. Then you just have to rinse the garments in cool water and wash them in hot. Remazol dyes are somewhat easier to finish washing out than Procion MX dyes are.

A good way to start is to order both the "Liquid Reactive Dye Painting Sampler (Cool Palette)" and the "Liquid Reactive Dye Painting Sampler (Warm Palette)" from PRO Chemical & Dye. Or, you can order a two ounce bottle of each color you like, and use soda ash from the hardware store to set the dyes. 

For more information, see:

"Vinyl Sulfone Fiber Reactive Dyes"

"Ways to increase your reaction temperature", on the page
"What is the effect of temperature on fiber reactive dyes?"

"PRO Liquid Reactive Dyes" on ProChem's web site


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Message: I purchased a shirt that is 100% polyester (that is washable in cold water and can be dried in the dryer) but is also hydromatic (says this garment is designed using specially engineered moisture management yarns for more comfort regardless of climate or activity level.  The fabric has properties that extract moisture from the skin and expedite the evaporation process).  I have never dyed anything before but I not even sure if I want to dye it, the shirt is pink, I'd like to actually REMOVE the dye (the pink) to make it white.  Can this be done?  

Sorry, but no. You can't bleach the dye from a polyester shirt, even in the absence of any specially engineered surface finishes. That pink is there to stay.

I don't know whether or not the special finishes will make it impossible to dye the shirt, but dyeing polyester is no project for a novice dyer, anyway. It requires a special kind of dye, a large dedicated non-aluminum dyeing pot (not to be used for food afterwards), and an hour of boiling with a toxic carrier chemical. See "Dyeing Polyester with Disperse Dye", at http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/dispersedye.shtml.

You can probably use fabric paints, instead of dye, on your shirt if you feel you must alter its appearance, but the results will not be the same as dyeing and will not produce a smooth solid color.

I strongly recommend that you use 100% natural fibers, such as cotton or silk, for your dyeing projects. Rayon and uncoated nylon can be dyed pretty easily, as well, but all other synthetic fibers should be avoided, for dyeing at home.

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Name: Leela
Message: May I know the % Dye content and the chemical structure of Acid Red 266 and the price list before placing an order. I want to use it for my research purpose.

Are you asking about purchasing Jacquard Acid Dye through my web page? The price is $3.14 per 15-gram jar, plus shipping.

Jacquard's 617 Cherry Red Acid Dye is Colour Index Acid Red 266. Here is an image of its molecular structure:


I don't know the percent strength of the dye powder. The data I have for it include that its solubility in hot water is 50-60 gm/liter, its washfastness at 105°F is 4 or 5 on a scale of 1-5 (5 being best), its lightfastness is 6 on a scale of 1-7, and its dichargability is moderate, according to the information provided by Jacquard Products.

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Message: Dear Sir,

We are an hand dyeing company based in Mumbai. We have a problem if you could help it will be highly appreciated.

I am preparing a tye-dye fabric over which i am applying wax. For Tie-dye i am using remazol dyes but when the fabric is tie-dyed it is perfect but after appyling wax we have to remove the wax by boiling the fabric upto 100-110 degrees centigrade on doing so all the dyes of fades off. We are preapring the colours as mentioned below :

Remazol dyes are added to water with common salt and soda ash and boiled for 4-5 minimutes the colours are ready they brought down to normal temprature and are ready to use.

We are using the prepared colours for hand dying on 100% Cotton ready-to-dye fabric. The ready to dye fabric, after applying wax over it, is passed through dye-fix prepared in water. Now after this the fabric is hand dyed, after hand dyed it is kept of drying, after drying it is again boiled at 120 degrees for removal of wax; on doing this, the colour fades off.

Can you give me any solution so that I can get the original brightness of remazol dyes 

Awaiting for you kind co-opreation.


The Remazol dyes may be pre-boiled in mild acid before dyeing wool, if you need to remove the masking group from the dye, but this pre-boiling step is quite unnecessary for dyeing cotton. It is possible that you are killing the reactivity of your Remazol dyes by boiling them with soda ash. I would like to know what happens if you omit this step. Or perhaps you could continue this step but at lower temperatures, allowing the masking group to be removed immediately before use, but without causing the dye to fully react with the water, as is very likely happening when they are boiled with the soda ash.

Dissolve the dye powder in lukewarm water (around 20 to 35 degrees C). Instead of boiling it, just make sure that it is well dissolved, and avoid heating the dye. You can dye 100% cotton with Remazol dyes and soda ash. Dye processes involving a lot of water usually require salt, while direct application of strong dye mixtures usually does not. The dyes will react with the cotton in the presence of soda ash; the ideal temperature for this reaction is between 40 and 60 degrees C., but 30 degrees C should work if you allow more time for the dye reaction. You can tie-dye the fabric at room temperature with soda ash, either by adding the soda ash to the dye or by pre-soaking the cotton in it, and then place the dyed fabric in a warm place to allow the reaction to continue. The dye must remain damp on the fabric during this period. Or, you can immersion dye the fabric with the Remazol dye mixed with water, using hot water of 40 to 60°C, when wax is not involved. Use temperatures closer to 40°C when using wax that you are not ready to remove. 40°C should not melt the wax. Beeswax melts at around 60 or 65°C, and synthetic waxes usually have higher melting points than that, though some vegetable-based waxes have lower temperatures. 

The reaction between the Remazol dyes and the cotton fabric should make a permanent chemical bond, which should not come off when you boil the fabric. When you rinse out the extra dye, first wash out the salts and soda ash with plain cool water, and then use hot water to remove dye. Your boiling step could be used to remove the last vestiges of unreacted dye.

What is the dye-fix you refer to? Soda ash is a good dye fixative for that stage, used as you describe. The pH of the dye fixative soda ash solution should be around 10.5 or 11. To reach this pH, about 250 milliliters of soda ash in four liters of water is usually a good concentration. The ideal pH for Remazol reaction with cotton is probably about 11.5. A commercial cationic dye fixative should not be necessary if you can get the dye/fiber reaction to work.

With reactive dyes on cotton, some of the dye will always remain unattached and wash out immediately after dyeing, so be sure that your dye colors are darker and more intense than you want when you apply them, before washing the excess dye out. 

An important detail is that all alkali, any pH-increasing chemical, such as soda ash, trisodium phosphate, or sodium hydroxide, must be rinsed out in cool water, 30°C or below, before hot water is used to remove wax or rinse out excess unattached dye. Remazol dyes can be stripped out of the fabric when washed at a high pH and high temperature. Use cool water before using hot water, to remove the soda ash.

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Name: Jeff
Message: Hello. I am trying to find someone that will be able to tie dye a small peice of nylon speaker cloth for me. I have absolutely no experience with any type of dying, but I am hoping that you will be able to direct me towards someone would do a good job. 

Please take a look at the 'Find a Custom Dyer' link on my web site, under the 'More' menu, or follow this direct link. There, a number of custom dyers have listed themselves and their websites. Anyone who dyes silk or wool should be able to dye untreated white 100% nylon fabric, using acid dyes, or you might choose to use some custom dyed wool fabric of an appropriate weave.

Don't ask them to dye a black or dark brown piece of nylon. Dye will show up only on light colors. The fabric must be washable and not treated with any water-resistant or stain-resistant finishes. Many dyers are willing to dye their own fabric to your specifications, but there is always a concern about risks, when dyeing a piece of fabric supplied by the customer, in case the fabric becomes damaged and not usable.


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Name: a. mclain
Message: Hi Is there any places to purchase these dyes in the Houston, Texas area?

The best local store I've found in the Houston area for dye is Texas Art Supply. They carry Jacquard Procion MX dyes, and the Jacquard tie-dye kit which is superior to other brands of tie-dye kits. (Avoid the Rit brand tie-dye kit, which is very inferior.) They also carry Jacquard Acid dyes, which are good for wool and silk. The selection is much better than at hobby and crafts stores such as Michael's, and the prices  are even significantly better.

If you really get into dyeing, you will find much better prices for dyes by mail-order, if you order at least two ounces of each color. See the companies listed on my page of Sources for Dyeing Supplies Around the World.

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My wife was asking me if there is any solution that can be applied to cloth before dyeing that will block the absorption of the dye.  She wants to write words on the fabric that will remain white.

Yes, there are many different resist products you can use for this purpose. 
The best but most trouble is hot wax, as in batik. See these two pages for examples:
Two fish snap-crotch baby shirt
Single-wax batik with low water immersion dyed background

There are many different water-based resists, which are easier to use than melted wax. They all work best if the dye is painted or sprayed on, instead of soaking the fabric in the dye. At all costs you must avoid all-purpose dye, such as Rit dye. It is a hot-water dye which requires extended immersion of the fabric in nearly boiling water. You must choose a suitable cold water fiber-reactive dye, such as Procion MX dye. Your local sewing store might carry Dylon Permanent fabric dye, which is another cool water fiber reactive dye and will work. For larger projects (anything more than a single garment), mail-order dye is a better deal.

The easiest to find water-soluble resist is Elmer's Blue School Gel, the type in the squeeze bottle, not the glue stick. It actually works quite well. Do not try to use white glue; only the blue gel will work. Squeeze it onto the fabric and let it dry thoroughly. Once it's bone dry, which may take a day or two, you can brush or squirt or spray on your cold-water fiber reactive dye. After the dye has reacted with the fabric, using soda ash, you can wash out the dried gel using very hot water. Look at the following page for an example of writing done using Elmer's Blue Glue Gel:
Immersion Dyeing with Water Soluble Resist


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Name: Linda
Message: I am a screenprinter and actually am looking for a dye or paste that can be used to remove pigmentation from the fabric sort of like "etching" with screens. Instead of laying ink down to make the design but remove the fabric pigment or bleach.  Needs to work with the screens in screenprinting.  Can you help?

Removing dye from fabric is called discharge dyeing, although dye itself cannot remove color. 

Discharging chemicals include ordinary household chlorine bleach, which is hypochlorite, and a host of different chemicals that produce sulfur dioxide on the fabric. Although chlorine bleach can be thickened just before use, I don't think it will work with screen printing screens, because it damages synthetic fibers such as polyester (bleach is also very damaging to animal-based fibers such as silk). The sulfur-based chemicals are more compatible with your equipment, but there are many commercially dyed fabrics and garments that cannot be discharged, no matter what chemical you use. Since the dyes used in commercial garments can and do change unpredictably, you will have to view each shirt as an experiment, unless the garments are guaranteed by your supplier to discharge (or unless you first dye it the original color yourself with a dye known to be dischargeable).

There is a form of discharge ink that is commercially available for screen printing, based on zinc formaldehyde sulfoxylate, one of the sulfur dioxide-producing discharge chemicals. Here's a rather negative article that describes the challenges involved in its use:
"The Inadequacy of Discharge Ink (in Screen and Inkjet Printing)"
It's just as well to know the possible drawbacks before getting started. You should easily be able find suitable products with a web search, now that you know that you should search with the words "discharge" and "ink" together. There are inks available now that combine discharge step with a coloring step, at the same time.

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