Name: heide
Message: hello....I have an enormous 3 piece sofa that has slip covers designed in a swirling pattern that is very ugly.Bright colors from white to black to green to peach.These slip covers are made very well and I do not know the type of fabric.Probably not cotton but a mix.Will I be able to dye these slip covers to a solid brown/blk and if so could you please help with a few suggestions....or maybe you know a person or company that will dye them for me. Thank you

I really can't tell you whether or not you will be successful in dyeing something whose fiber content is unknown!

It is essential to select the right type of dye for the fiber content. There is no way around this problem. If your slipcovers are made of cotton, rayon, linen, or hemp, you can easily dye them black with cool water fiber reactive dye, but other natural fibers require a different type of dye, as well as heat which may shrink them, and if the covers are synthetic, there is no hope at all.

If your slipcovers are only partially made of cotton, you cannot get a dark color. The synthetic portion will not dye, so that the darkest color you can get for, say, 50% cotton, will be of only medium intensity.

True Color Fabric Dyeing might be able to dye your slipcovers, depending on their fiber content; see <http://www.fabricdyeing.com>.

Name: Lance
Message: Hi,
I have a piece of military tactical gear that is nylon and cordura. It is black, and I want to make it tan (for reasons that are probably obvious!) I would even be happy with a medium brown. I looked around the site but couldn't find an obvious answer. Can it be done?

Not by dyeing or bleaching. Dye can only darken fabric, not lighten it, and you cannot bleach a synthetic fiber. (Cordura is a type of nylon.)

The only remaining possibility is paint. Ordinary acrylic artist's colors, or even acrylic house paint (commonly labeled latex), will both change the color well, but will also make the fabric much stiffer, and might also flake off, in the long run. This is the most economical approach, but not always the most satisfactory.

If the stiffness of ordinary acrylic paint is a problem - it would be most uncomfortable on clothing - then you can buy special (and much more expensive) fabric paint that will not stiffen the fabric very much. You need to avoid most fabric paints, because they are transparent and will not significantly lighten the color of your nylon fabric. Only fabric paints that are specifically marked 'opaque' will meet your needs. ProChem sells PROfab Opaque Textile Paints, and Dharma Trading Company sells Jacquard Lumiere and Neopaque fabric paint.

Acrylic artist's paint can be made more suitable for use as a fabric paint by the addition of fabric medium to the paint. Dick Blick sells Liquitex Fabric Medium.

Name: Robert k. Tompsett
Message: I'll be very specific. I have a military Army Camo pattern field jacket 50% cotton, 50% Nylon. I would like to dye it solid black to wear as a civlian jacket. what type of dye do you recommend?

All-purpose dye, used in the washing machine with the hottest water available or on the stovetop in 190 degree water (87 degrees C.), followed by the use of Retayne, which is a fixative to make the dye more permanent.

I prefer cool water fiber reactive dyes when dyeing 100% cotton, but all-purpose dye is preferable for your purpose. All-purpose dye will work on both the cotton and the nylon portions of your garment at the same time. See "All Purpose Dyes".

Brands of all-purpose dye include Tintex Hot Water dye, Dylon Multi-Purpose Dye, and the ubiquitous Rit dye, which is readily available in most US grocery stores and pharmacies, Walmarts, etc. Results will be best if you use plenty of dye, perhaps twice the amount recommended on the package, plus the recommended amount of salt, and, for the sake of the nylon, 1 cup (250 ml) of white vinegar per 10 liters of water. (Vinegar has no effect when dyeing cotton, but is important in dyeing nylon.)

Retayne is a product that will prevent the all-purpose dye from bleeding badly in the laundry. You can buy it at your local quilt shop or by mail-order from most dye suppliers, such as Dharma and ProChem (See "Sources for Supplies" for contact information).

I need your help. My mom has accidentally bleached my new sweatshirt. I was wondering, if it is possible to dye the shirt without ruining the shirt. The print on this shirt is not embroidered, but the kind that can sometimes flake off. Is it still ok to dye this shirt?

You can safely dye this shirt if you use cold water fiber reactive dye, in room temperature water (70 to 100 degrees F). You should not dye it with all-purpose dye, such as Rit dye, because it is possible that the print might be colored by the acid dye it contains. The plastic of the design should be completely unaffected by fiber reactive dye.

There are several different brands of fiber reactive dye. It is difficult to find in local crafts stores. Sometimes a local crafts store will carry Jacquard MX dye, which is excellent. Dylon Cold Water dye is fine, too, but not Dylon Multi-Purpose dye (which is all-purpose dye). If you can't find it locally, you should mail-order Procion MX dye from one of the companies listed on my "Sources for Supplies" page. You can order it as a 'tie dye kit', or you can order just a jar of dye and some soda ash (also known as dye activator), and buy salt locally, if you are doing washing machine dyeing.

If you want to dye your shirt a solid color, you may want to do your dyeing in the washing machine. Pro Chemical & Dye provides instructions for "Immersion Dyeing in the Home Washing Machine using PRO MX Reactive Dyes"; Dharma Trading Company provides similar instructions for "The Vat (Washing Machine, Tub, Bucket) Dye Method". (I always omit the Calsolene Oil in the latter recipe because its warning label requires safety precautions that seem like too much trouble to me, and I get great results without it.)

Name: Milly
Message: Hi, I purchased a 100% cotton duvet and sham set for my bedroom. However, it's a sort of cream color (which I detest). I would like to have it be a nice clean white. Is this possible? Does Rit make a white dye? Or do I just use the Whitener? Or?


Dyers like to say that white dye is called water. Dye is transparent, so a white dye would have no effect on the color you place it on top of.

Removing dye from fabric is called discharging. Discharging agents include chlorine bleach and sodium hydrosulfite. (See What chemicals can be used to remove dye?.) Synthetic fabrics cannot be discharged, but often cotton can be. Does your duvet have a care label telling you not to bleach it? If not, you can choose between household bleach and Rit® brand Color Remover, which is sodium hydrosulfite. Sometimes one works better, sometimes the other does. Sometimes neither one has any effect. Just do not combine them; use only one at a time, and wash the duvet thoroughly in between the two products, if you decide to try both. Rit Color Remover may be less damaging to the fabric than chlorine bleach. You will need several packages. Be sure to follow the package directions carefully.

Rit® White-Wash is another product that contains sodium hydrosulfite; it also contains soda ash. I suspect it to be a less powerful formulation than Rit Color Remover, for removing color.

Rit's manufacturer, Phoenix Brands, also sells an optical whitener, called Rit® Whitener & Brightener, which can make a fabric treated with it look brighter. It does this by absorbing invisible ultraviolet light and changing it to white light. It will not change a cream colored fabric to white, but it may make a white one more attractive. Your best results would probably come from using two or three boxes of Rit Color Remover, washing that out, and then using Rit Whitener & Brightener.

[Updated January 20, 2007]

Name: Mindy
Message: I was wondering if you could help me with some research on my science fair. I am making dyes from fruits to dye cotton. I was wondering what would be the best way (and easiest) to dye the cotton, and if you have any information on natural fruit dyes. Thank you!

The most important thing to know about natural dyes is that, as a rule, they will not stick to cotton permanently unless you mordant the cotton first. Sometimes you may see household products such as vinegar or salt referred to as mordants, but they are not true mordants at all, and will not enable the dye to persist on the fabric. You must use a proper mordant if you want your dye to stick to the cotton. If the coloring agent does not stick to the cotton when it is laundered, it is not truly a dye at all, merely a stain.

You do the mordanting as a separate step before dyeing. Good mordants for use on cotton include alum, chromium iron, and copper. Alum is by far the safest of this group, though it can be toxic if ingested. I recommend that you consult Jill Goodwin's second edition of A Dyer's Manual (2003), which gives the following recipe for mordanting cotton. First soak the cotton in water for at least an hour. To mordant 8 ounces of cotton, dissolve 2 ounces (60 grams) of alum and half an ounce (4 teaspoons or 20 ml) of washing soda in a pot of boiling water, then boil the cotton in the alum water for half an hour, stirring occasionally. Leave the cotton to cool in the liquid, then, when it is cool, gently squeeze the extra liquid from the cotton.

To dye the mordanted cotton, use twice as much dyeing material, by weight, as you have cotton to dye (weigh your cotton before you start). Soak the fruit in water for one to two days, then boil it in this same water for an hour, then strain out the solids and keep the liquid for use as a dyebath. Boil the cotton in this liquid for an hour and let it cool in the dyeing liquid. Using an acid such as vinegar or cream of tartar in the dyebath will often improve the color of fruit dyes.

Name: Lori
Message: Hello--I want to dye a very nice "dry clean only" suit to wear to my daughters wedding. It's light pink and I want it plum. Is there such a thing as cold water dye that won't wreck the suit? The suit will only be worn for one day, so if it doesn't hold the color I won't be upset. I have dyed fabric in the past, but never a dry clean only suit.

No, sorry, there is no way to dye anything without washing it. The best way to get an overall single color, in fact, is by using repeated cycles on a washing machine.

If you wash the suit and it survives, then you can dye it with cold water fiber reactive dye, such as Procion MX dye, if it is made of cotton, linen, rayon, hemp, or tencel. All-purpose dye, such as Rit brand dye, is only temporary if applied in warm water (instead of very hot water), but seems that even this temporary effect could meet your needs, if the suit can be washed without damage.

However, there is no way to apply any dye if the suit is truly dry clean only. You simply have to use water to apply the dye, as well as to remove the excess dye afterwards.

Name: Felicia
Message: Hi, I am a waitress, and I have to wear black pants, but from doing my sidework they have gotten bleach stains all over. There are so many red spots all over my pants, it looks terrible. I tried to buy new pants but they are all too short on me. I called some dry cleaners but no one re-dyes clothes anymore. How could I do this myself? The pants are made of 62% Polyester 35% Rayon 3% Spandex And it says to wash cold. Thank you. Felicia

Dyeing polyester requires extensive boiling, obviously unsuitable for the care instructions on your pants. Rayon is easy to dye with cold water fiber reactive dyes, such as Procion MX dye, but dyeing only 35% of the fiber will not produce black, only a lighter shade.

Take a look at the FAQ on my web site, specifically the question "How can I fix the bleach spots on my favorite clothing?". Often the best solution, though an imperfect one, is to use a fabric marker or another permanent marker to color in the spot so that it does not show so badly.

Name: Tricia
Message: Could you please tell me if it is possible to tie dye a large item like king size cotton flannel sheets to make into a comforter? Do I just buy the needed products from a craft store?

Yes, it is very possible. It is easier to dye the sheets before sewing them together with batting into a comforter. If they are cotton, they will dye well using fiber reactive dyes, such as Procion MX dye.

Should you buy the ingredients from a craft store? It depends on the quality of your local crafts store. Some sell excellent tie dye kits, though they tend to contain only small amounts of dye. (You should weigh your sheets and allow about half an ounce (15 grams) of dye per pound of cotton.) Others recommend the use of inferior dyes, such as all-purpose dye. I strongly recommend against the use of all-purpose dye for tie-dyeing, especially large items, because good results require extensive simmering in a near-boiling dyebath. Fiber reactive dyes, in contrast, need only room temperature to bind to the fabric.

You will need Procion MX dye, soda ash, and urea in order to follow the standard tie-dyeing recipe. A tie-dye kit will provide only the three primary colors, yellow, cyan, and magenta. If you want a more subtle palette of colors, or to match the colors in your room, you may prefer to order specific colors from a company such as ProChem, or other good sources for supplies.

In addition to tie-dyeing, you should also consider the technique of low water immersion dyeing, which is easier than tie-dyeing but has great results.

Name: Kate
Message: I have been mixing (mostly Procion) dyes for my fiber arts class, with no mask or anything, and I was wondering if I was in danger of health risks. I heard that the powder is very toxic.. is this a rumor?

The dye powder is not highly toxic, that is, it does not cause immediate symptoms of toxicity. However, the powder in Procion MX dyes, like ALL powders, should not be inhaled. It is best to act as though it were very toxic, just to avoid any problems.

The risks from fiber reactive dyes, such as Procion MX dyes, appear to be quite low as long as you do not inhale or otherwise consume them. They are considered quite safe to use after they have been dissolved in water.

While the fiber reactive dyes do not appear to be among the more dangerous dyes known, as far as toxicity or carcinogenicity are concerned, the fact that they have not been found to be safe for human consumption means that they may have some long-term risks, given repeated excessive exposures. Of course, those who work in dye factories or in facilities that repackage dyes, and are thus exposed continually, are at much greater risk than those who use them only occasionally.

The real KNOWN risk with these dyes, however, is that of allergy. People who breathe in Procion MX or any other dye powder are apt to develop allergies to it, sometimes with resulting severe asthma. Once you have developed an allergy to this type of dye, you will never again be able to use it at all, nor to be in the same room when someone else uses it. It is important to take all reasonable precautions to avoid exposures that may cause you to develop this allergy yourself.

Carol Bryer Fallert is one well-known dye artist who developed an allergy to Procion MX dye; fortunately, she was able to switch to another class of fiber reactive dyes, and thus did not have to give up her career. She writes, on her web site, that the Cibacron F dyes seem to be slightly less likely to float around in the air, and thus may be safer, but she nonetheless wears a vapor and mist respirator while weighing out dye powder.

While there is always the possibility of some toxicity or carcinogenicity in any household chemical or cleanser, there is no need to panic about small exposures to fiber reactive dyes. A nice feature of the fiber reactive dyes is that they react very quickly with proteins, such as those in the skin, so any minor spill is apt to become permanently affixed to the dead cells on the surface of the skin, rather than being absorbed into living cells within the body. This may not apply to dye that is taken onto the lungs or the digestive tract, however. It is certainly advisable to wear a dust mask, or, preferably, a respirator with a particulate filter. I am sure that OSHA would disapprove very much if they learned that you were not wearing a mask while weighing out dyes for your job!

It is your right as an employee to obtain MSDS (Materials Data Safety Sheets) for all chemicals that you use in your work. You should request these from the company that supplies your dyes.

Name: Eric
Message: I have a eggplant purple velvet slip cover to a foof chair(its like a bean bag chair but filled with soft foam). It can be machine washed on cold. I want to dye it black. Can I use the rit dye or is there a better type to use for this? Thank you for your help.

What fiber is your velvet slip cover made of? It is impossible to know what kind of dye to use, unless you know what fiber you have. The wrong kind of dye will simply wash out, or if unwashed will bleed onto clothing when the chair is used. (Dyed items must always be washed before use.) If your chair is not labeled as to the fiber content of its cover, contact Comfort Research and ask them what it is.

Polyester velvet can be dyed only with disperse dye, no other type; disperse dye requires extensive boiling, with a special carrier chemical, to dye it. Ultrasuede® is made of polyester, but velvet can be woven from almost any fiber.

Cotton velvet can be dyed in cool water with fiber reactive dye, such as Procion MX dye; the cool water will help to prevent shrinkage, so the slipcover will still fit on the chair afterwards. For dyeing cotton a solid color, the easiest method is to use fiber reactive dye in the washing machine.

Cotton velvet can also be dyed in hot water with all-purpose dye, such as Rit® brand dye; however, since all-purpose dye requires a very hot dye bath (ideally 190 degrees Fahrenheit), it is likely to cause problems. The heat is apt to cause shrinkage, so that the slip cover will not fit back on to the chair. Moreover, it can be expensive to dedicate a large cooking pot to dye use only (since you must never use a pot that's been used for all-purpose dye again in the future for food); of course, there is the same problem with disperse dye.

Nylon velvet can be dyed black with Lanaset dye (also sold as Telana or Sabraset brand dye), or with any other dye intended for use on wool, including all-purpose dye, which contains acid dye as one of its components. However, these dyes do require heat, and again, shrinkage is a serious issue when dyeing slip covers.

Name: Melissa
Message: Is Rit brand color remover safe for use on silk? I have some white silk garments that have been stained by dye from darker items. The label says to hand-wash cold, though I usually use the machine (cold, delicate cycle).

As you may already know, chlorine bleach is death to silk, as well as to other animal fibers and synthetics. However, Rit Color Remover is much more suitable for silk.

Rit color remover is sodium hydrosulfite. It has been used extensively on silk by dye artists as a discharge agent, to remove dye in decorative patterns. Hydrogen peroxide is another discharge agent that is safe for use on silk, though it may be less effective.

If some light markings are left on the silk even after you do everything you can to remove them, as does sometimes happen, you might consider dyeing it. Dyeing a solid shade does not cover up marks, because, since dye is transparent, the markings end up darker as well, unless you select a very dark color for dyeing. Dyeing using the technique of low water immersion dyeing easily produces richly colored complex patterns which will cover nearly everything.

Name: Lil
Message: I have a couple of questions for you. One, I have a set of king size 600 threadcount egyptian cotton sateen sheets. They were somewhat pricey when I bought them. They are still in great condition except the color is somewhat dingy. (They started as a cream color.) Do you think it is worth it for me to take the time and energy to dye them? After reading your exceptional advice on your wonderful site, I am now convinced that I need to use the fiber-reactive dyes. However, it sounds like a lot of work.

Second, if I don't want to dye the sheets myself, how can I find someone who will dye the sheets for me (at a reasonable price)?

Fresh new 100% cotton sheets may dye poorly due to the resins and finishes used to make them wrinkle-free, but well-aged sheets, like yours, that have been washed many times, are much better for dyeing. I certainly think it's worthwhile to dye old 600-count Egyptian cotton sheets! They must be very soft by now.

For solid colors, dyeing in the washing machine is not at all difficult. You just follow the directions, adding water and salt to the machine, then the dissolved dye powder, the fabric, and finally the soda ash. You then reset the washing machine several times, at the end of each cycle, so the dye water does not drain out until an hour has gone by. Then all you have to do is wash out the excess dye, first in cold water and then in hot water.

As you said, you do need to use fiber reactive dyes for best results and easiest dyeing. Pro Chemical & Dye provides instructions for "Immersion Dyeing in the Home Washing Machine using PRO MX Reactive Dyes" and "Immersion Dyeing in the Home Washing Machine using Sabracron F Reactive Dyes "; Dharma Trading Company provides similar instructions for "The Vat (Washing Machine, Tub, Bucket) Dye Method". (I always omit the Calsolene Oil in the latter recipe because its warning label requires safety precautions that seem like too much trouble to me, and I get great results without it.)

You should also consider more exciting forms of dyeing, such as low water immersion dyeing, or possibly tie-dyeing. I once tie-dyed a 50% polyester sheet; even though the colors are drab compared to 100% cotton, it has been much loved by children and guests.

You can buy soda ash at a swimming pool store and non-iodized salt at the grocery store, but it is best to mail-order the fiber reactive dye, either Procion MX, Cibacron/Sabracron F, or Drimarene K. See my list of "Sources for Dyeing Supplies".

If you really don't want to go to the trouble of doing any of this yourself (though I think it is a lot of fun and highly worthwhile), there are commercial dyers who will do the dyeing for you. Many of the tie-dyers listed on my "Custom Dyers List" page would be delighted to do custom tie-dyeing or low water immersion dyeing for you. If you shudder at the thought of knock-your-eyes-out bright tie-dye, keep in mind that it can be done in absolutely any color scheme you like. Solid color dyeing is also provided by many of these companies, such as True Color Fabric Dyeing. It is generally difficult to get someone to dye polyester, but very easy to find someone who loves to dye cotton and other natural fibers.

Name: amy
Message: Can faux suede be dyed? I have faux suede window coverings (swags) that are a dark sage green color. We would like to dye them to a rust color. Is this possible? Can it be done in the washing machine with Rit Dye? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Since all dye is transparent, it is impossible to dye any dark green to make a medium brown. You can use dye to change to a darker color, but never to a lighter one. To see what colors are possible, mix some watercolor paint to your shade of dark sage green, and then try adding other colors to it. (Some fabrics can be bleached before dyeing, in order to achieve a lighter color, but this does not always work, and synthetic fibers cannot be bleached at all.)

You failed to indicate what fiber your faux suede is made of. It is impossible to give advice about dyeing anything whose fiber content is not known, because each fiber has its own dye requirements.

Ultrasuede® is one brand of artificial suede, manufactured from 100% polyester microfiber. Like all polyester, it cannot be dyed with Rit® brand all-purpose dye. No matter how you apply any brand of all-purpose dye, it will simply wash out of polyester.

The only dye that can be used to dye polyester is disperse dye. See "Dyeing Polyester with Disperse Dyes". Solid shade dyeing with disperse dye requires extensive boiling with a carrier chemical, and is not a suitable project for the dye novice. In contrast, dyeing cotton with fiber reactive dyes, such as Procion MX dye, is a much easier and more satisfying project that is far more likely to yield desirable results.

Name: Simone
Message: Hello,
I have a quick question all the way from Singapore. I have this really nice dress but dont like the colour. I was thinking about dyeing it but i wasnt sure about afew things. I want to know if you can dye a polka dot dress so that you dont see the dots? So the dress is white and has little black dots all over it. I love the style of the dress and have a birthday coming up where i would like to wear it. I wanted to know if i could change it into a bright colour and lose the dots?

Even without knowing the fiber content of the dress (which is essential for determining how to dye it), I can tell you that what you propose is, unfortunately, impossible. All dye is transparent. When a printed material is dyed, the printing will remain visible, unless the dye is so dark that it covers up the design. Since your dots are black, only a deep black dye could render them less visible.

There's nothing wrong with a brightly colored dress with black dots, though. If you decide that you want to dye it, you must use the correct type of dye for the material from which the dress is made. See "About Dyes".

Name: Debbie Stone
Message: I want to dye a vintage pill box hat for my daughter's Jackie Kennedy project. The hat is made of "shimmery white material" with a bow on top. What is the best way to do this?
Thanks so much for your help.

This is a very difficult question to answer without knowing the fiber content of the hat, because different fibers require completely different types of dye and methods of dye application.

Natural fibers, such as cotton and silk, which are by far the easiest fibers to dye, can be woven into a shiny weave, such as satin or taffeta, so it is impossible from your description to know whether you have a natural or synthetic material. Rayon (also known as viscose rayon) is a synthetic fiber that is as easily dyed as cotton, as they are both cellulose fibers; it is easily found in vintage materials, having been first produced commercially around 1910. Acetate is a chemically altered form of rayon which is completely unlike cotton and cannot be dyed easily at home. Nylon, a synthetic which was introduced in the 1930s, is dyed with the same dyes and techniques as wool. Polyester, which was introduced in the 1950s, is very difficult to dye at home.

Perhaps the best approach would be to avoid dyeing altogether, and use a high quality fabric paint. Fabric paint contains a coloring agent plus a special form of glue which attaches the pigment to the fiber. Lumiere is a brand which is available in a variety of nice metallic and pearl colors.

Name: gedy
Message: Is it possible to dye acrylic /polyester ?

Yes, but immersion dyeing of these fibers is not a good project for someone who is new to dyeing. It is much more challenging than dyeing cotton with Procion MX type dye. You must use a large cooking pot to boil the fabric in the dye, but this pot must never again be used for cooking, because the dye is not safe for food use.

See "Dyeing Polyester with Disperse Dyes".

Name: Stewart
Message: This might be a silly question but I just have to have an answer.....Can Dylon clothes dyes be used fo cold process soap making...?

No. Dyes used in cosmetics should be required to pass more stringent safety testing than dyes used in clothing, because dyes can be absorbed through the skin. There are some dyes which are fine to use in dyeing clothes that really should not be allowed to contact the skin extensively. They are okay for use in dyeing clothing, because proper use affixes them permanently to the fiber, but applying them directly to the skin is unwise. For soap-making, I recommend that you stick to the use of dyes that have been tested for safety. This may not be required legally, but ethical concerns require it.

Dyes used in cosmetics do include some dyes that are not safe to eat, however, such as D&C Yellow #10, D&C Red #28, D&C Red #30, and D&C Red #33.

One online source of cosmetic-grade colorants, suitable for use in soap making, is The Coloration Station.

Name: Jennifer
Message: I was wondering if it was possible to dye a green satin skirt black? thankyou! jen x

I have no idea. What is your satin skirt made of? There is a huge difference in the dyeability of cotton satin, nylon satin, silk satin, polyester satin, and acetate satin. They are nothing at all like each other, except for the weave. You have to know what fiber your satin is woven from, before you can dye it.

Name: therese
Message: hi! i was wondering if i could dye a shawl that i have. it's a half acrylic, half wool blend. would that work, to dye it black, for example? and which dye could i use?

You can dye the wool portion of the blend. A number of people say that the best black dye for wool is the Lanaset black. Lanaset dyes are also sold under the names Telana and Sabraset. One of the retailers that sells this type of dye is Pro Chemical and Dye, or try a web search. Wool can also be dyed with acid dyes, but the Lanaset/Sabraset/Telana black is the most satisfactory of the blacks for use on wool and other animal fibers.

Dyeing the wool but not the acrylic will most likely result in a heathered effect.

I would advise you not to try to dye the acrylic portion of the shawl. Ordinary dyes will have no effect. Disperse dyes will dye acrylic only pale colors, not deep shades, and are not suitable for the novice dyer. Basic dyes will work on acrylic, but they are among the dyes I used to damage DNA in my graduate studies; I do not consider them safe enough for use at home. They are also a huge mess, as they may permanently dye everything they contact, such as your dyeing pans, countertop, floor, etc. It's probably best to just go with the heathered effect you will get by dyeing the wool portion of this blend.

Name: bob
Message: is it possible to dye Under Armour clothing? It is a type of moisture wicking clothing? I had a piece of clothing royal blue that I would like to dye black. Just wondering if it will work? Thankyou

It depends on the fiber content. What is it made of?

Nylon microfiber is easy to dye with the same dyes that work on wool, unless a fabric coating has been applied that may block the dye.

Polyester microfiber is very difficult to dye, as normal dyes do not attach to polyester, and the disperse dye that does work on polyester is not easy for a novice to use, except for iron-on designs.

Hello. I Stumbled Across Your Site, And Had A Quick Look To See If My Answer Was Already There, But I Couldn't Find It. I Was Wondering If I Could Dye A 100% White Cotton T-shirt Which Has A Motif On The Frount Black. Without Ruining The Motif. Also I Have A 100% Cotton Brown T-shirt With A Motif On That I Would Also Like To Dye Black. I Heard That If You Cover The Motif With Wax, Then It Will Work. But I'm Not So Sure.

What is the motif made of? If it is screen-printed with a plastic-like ink, or embroidered with polyester or nylon thread, you can dye with cool water fiber reactive dyes (such as Procion MX dye) and have no effect whatsoever on the motif.

If the motif is black, there is no problem regardless of what it is made of, because, as dye is transparent, the dye cannot cover up the black. Just use light enough colors to leave a good contrast between the black and the dyed regions.

If the motif is rendered in fabric dye, you will need to cover it or otherwise protect the motif from the dye. If the motif is rendered in fabric paint, it all depends upon whether the fabric paint is transparent or opaque; most fabric dyes are transparent, and dyeing the fabric behind them will appear to darken them, messing up the design. Opaque fabric paint will be unaffected by cool water dye.

To cover a motif with wax, you must get the wax hot enough to thoroughly penetrate the fabric, and apply it to both the front and back of the fabric. After the dyeing is completed (obviously using only cool water dyes so as not to melt the wax before time), remove the wax by boiling; see "How to Batik". A much easier method, for tie-dyeing or low water immersion, is simply to tie of the region around the motif and avoid placing any dye upon it.

Note that the requirement in many of these possible situations for cool water dye means that you must not use all-purpose dye. All-purpose dye works well only when applied in very hot water, preferably 190 degrees Fahrenheit (88 C.) or higher. Use a cool water fiber reactive dye, such as Procion MX dye. For a list of mail-order companies that sell various types of dyes, see "Sources for Supplies".

Name: tatiana.
Message: HI MY NAME IS TATIANA I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO DO FOLDINGPATTERNS BUT THE ONLY ONE I KNOW HOW IS THE STRIPES. I HAVE TRIED TO DO A SQUARE, A HEART AND AND OTHERS BUT I CANNOT. CANYOU HELP ME TELLING ME HOW DO I FOLD TO DO IT

The next fold you need to master is the circle.

Grab your shirt (or piece of fabric) in the center and pull that up, letting the rest of the shirt hang down, then use rubber bands around this point to make what will be concentric circles, like a bull's eye. This is a much simpler version of the mandala fold.

For a number of small circles, take small pebbles or marbles and attach them to the shirt, on the inside, using rubber bands or string on the outside.

For more complex shapes such as squares or hearts, which are variations on the circle fold, first draw your shape with a pencil on a shirt which has been folded in half vertically, then sew along these lines with a needle and strong thread, making very long basting stitches. Pull the thread very tight to gather up the fabric, then place a rubber band tightly over the stitching.

Trial and error is the best teacher. Try all of the folds shown in ProChem's tie-dye folding instructions.

If you need more detailed instructions than this, including pictures, I recommend that you buy a $5 book, Rainbow Tie-dye, by Sulfiati Harris. See Dharma Trading Company's "Tie Dye Books". I am not sure whether they ship to Costa Rico, though. Tie-dyed.com sells a DVD with instructions (see ), as well as shorter (and less expensive) downloadable movies. All of these instructions are for cold water dyeing methods, however. For hot-water dyeing methods, see the Rit Dye site.

If you are using all-purpose dye, the best dyeing method is to do immersion dyeing by dropping your tied items into a pot of simmering hot (190 degrees) water plus dye and salt. All-purpose dye does not work at room temperature, but it works well in nearly boiling water. For dyeing at room temperature, always use cool water fiber reactive dye, such as Procion MX dye, Jacquard or Rainbow Rock tie-dye kits, or Dylon Cool Water Dye. You can order Procion MX type dye internationally from Pro Chemical & Dye.

Name: Claire & Pat
Message: Hi Paula,
I'm writing on behalf of my wife Claire, and she is asking for your opinion on electric tjanting tools. We have found 2 suppliers on the net, 1 on the Dharma site and 1 on surmastore.com. We are in Ireland and it's difficult to evaluate these tools without actually holding them! She does'nt want to order something from the US that may not be any advance on the usual method.
Your site is very usefull and informative, so well done!

I know of two sources that are closer to you, both of them being in the UK.

Rainbow Silks has an electric tjanting in their PDF catalog, for 23 pounds: see <http://www.rainbowsilks.co.uk/>

George Weil has what must be a very different model judging from its price, which is 65 pounds: <http://www.georgeweil.co.uk/pdf/batik.pdf>

I am not sure how much better these really are than an assortment of tjantings of the old-fashioned sort. The one Dharma sells requires that you melt the wax before adding it to the tjanting. I can't tell whether the ones sold by Rainbow Silks or George Weil have the same limitation. I think it would be best to call them and ask questions before ordering.

Name: Caron
Message: Hi Paula,
I am a Shibori artist working mostly with silk. I have been considering trying shibori on poly microfibre as I love the idea of setting texture (pleats etc.) permanently. I have come across numerous well known shibori artists who use polyester microfibre to make shibori scarves, that look like they have been dip-dyed - see www.textilesyuh.com/en/index.html for an example of a dot epidermis scarf. Since polyester is so difficult to dye, I was wondering if you may know how they achieved the two tone effect on the fabric.

I think you should certainly try this.

People who have never dyed anything before in their lives are always writing to me asking how they can dye an expensive formal polyester dress, in time for a wedding in one or two weeks. I have to try to discourage them; it's a bad idea for them, for all sorts of reasons. Dyeing polyester is just not a good project for novices, besides the obvious problems in dyeing dry-clean-only formals. (Where would they even find a pot large enough to boil their large dresses in, how could the dresses themselves survive such rough treatment, and who could bear to dedicate a large expensive cooking pot to non-food-use-only, if they're not planning ever to dye anything again?)

You, on the other hand, are already skilled with dyeing. Moreover, dyeing scarf lengths of polyester is much more sensible than trying to dye a whole formal dress, and a few failures, if you had any, would cost you much less. This project should be well within your abilities.

I would like to strongly encourage you to order disperse dye from ProChem (or from Rainbow Silks in the UK or Batik Oetoro in Australia), and explore ProChem's instructions for various techniques. Immersion dyeing will produce solid shades, and can be combined with shibori techniques, while iron-ons that you create, using disperse dye paints, stamp pads, or fabric crayons, will allow all manner of other effects. With heat transfer shibori, the greatest challenge, and creative opportunity, lies in deciding how you can fold, pleat, or stitch your fabric in a way that will work with your iron. See "Dyeing Polyester with Disperse Dyes".

Name: Ronna
Message: Dear Paula,
I have a white dress that is 65% rayon and 35% acetate. I would like to dye it red. What dye would you recommend?

Viscose rayon, which is what we generally call rayon in the US, is a cellulose fiber which dyes just like cotton, but even more brilliantly. I prefer to dye it with cool water fiber reactive dye, such as Procion MX dye. Rayon lasts better when not treated with hot water, and these are the brightest and most colorfast of dyes for cellulose fibers. Do not use all-purpose dye on rayon, as the heating that is required for a good attachment between all-purpose dye and fiber will be destructive to the fragile rayon material.

Acetate is much more difficult to dye than cotton and rayon. To dye acetate, you would use disperse dye, the same dye used to dye polyester. As a general rule, it is best to ignore the acetate portion of this blend, and dye only the rayon portion. The undyed acetate fibers will remain white, and will reduce the brightness of your results, as compared to dyeing an item which is made of 100% rayon. Results can still be good, however.

Rayon/acetate garments are often labeled "dry clean only". You cannot dye something that is truly not washable, but you can often wash garments that are labeled this way by hand in cool water, taking care not to twist or wring the fabric. Rayon tends to be quite weak when wet, and it is then much more liable to tear or fray, so you must be careful and gentle with the fabric. Before dyeing your dress, prewash it; if it survives the prewashing process, you can go ahead and dye it.

For mail-order sources of Procion MX and other cool water fiber reactive dyes, see my list of "Sources for Dye Supplies".

Hi,
Is it possible to dye cotton with naturasl dyes without using a mordant?

Jill Goodwin give a list in her book, A Dyer's Manual (second edition). She writes, "Some natural dyestuffs will dye cotton direct without a mordant, including turmeric, safflower flowers, and barberry bark." Turmeric produces an orange-yellow without a mordant, while safflower and barberry bark both produce yellows.

I have about 20 white restaurant tablecloths I would like to dye into ivory. How can I go about doing that? Can you please advise? It's for an upcoming event in 5 days.

Are the tablecloths made of a dyeable material, such as cotton or linen? Do not try to dye polyester. You can dye 50% polyester/50% cotton, but only the cotton portion will dye, creating paler colors. Nylon requires a different class of dyes than cotton, called acid dyes.

Since tablecloths must be washed, and frequently, it is usually important to use a highly washfast dye. For this reason, do not use all-purpose dye unless there is truly no other choice. If you do use all-purpose dye, dye in the hottest water available, preferably 190 degrees Fahrenheit (88 C). However, if the only time the performance of these cloths matters is the very first time they are used, in five days' time, any sort of dye will do. If you use cooler water with all-purpose dye, the dye will wash out later, but that may be okay for your purposes this week.

Washing large items such as tablecloths is best done in a washing machine, preferably one of the European type that can heat the water to a much higher temperature than a household water heater can reach, but those machines are practically unavailable in the US, so that's only a dream for most of us. If you use fiber reactive dye, follow ProChem's instructions for "Immersion Dyeing in the Home Washing Machine using PRO MX Reactive Dyes". If you use all-purpose dye on cotton, follow the manufacturer's instructions as closely as possible (though following ProChem's directions for "Immersion Dyeing using Diazol Direct Dyes" would give longer-lasting results; you'd need to at least double the amount of dye used to make up for the unneeded components in the all-purpose dye mixture).

My name is Claire and I have to do a science fair project for school. The subject I have chosen to base my project on is Fabric Dyeing. The problem I have chosen is "Which fibers, natural (cotten, linen, silk) or synethic (polyester, rayon, nylon) do natural dyes take to better?" and I was wondering if you could send me some information on this subject. If you could, it would be very helpful. Thank you for your time.

Do not group rayon and nylon with polyester! Nylon is easily dyed with the same acid dyes that work on wool, because it contains an amide group much like that found in proteins. Even though it is synthetic, it acts like a natural fiber, because it is chemically similar to wool. Rayon is a fiber made of cellulose, just like cotton, and dyes the same as cotton, though the colors are brighter on rayon because the processing makes the cellulose molecules more easily reached by the dye. The cellulose in rayon is extracted from wood.

See "Dyeing Polyester with Disperse Dyes".

I think it would be great to compare polyester to cotton, and/or to silk, and/or to linen. Cotton and linen are almost identical, both being made of cellulose. Silk is a special case and can be dyed with fiber reactive dyes (see "Fiber Reactive Dyes") the same as cotton and rayon and linen, AND it can also be dyed with acid dyes (see "Dyes for Protein Fibers"). Wool is badly damaged by the high pH used with most fiber reactive dyes, though it will accept the dye.

If you use fiber reactive dye and soda ash (see "Hand Dyeing - How to Do It: basic recipe for Procion MX dyes on cellulose or silk", nylon will react much the same as polyester. Nylon does not accept dye at the high pHs required to dye cotton.

It would probably be best to avoid the use of all-purpose dye (brands of which include Rit Tint And Dye, Dylon Multi-Purpose Dye, and Tintex Hot Dye). It is a mixture of two completely different kinds of dye, which could confuse matters for your experiments. One, called acid dye, will work on wool, silk, and nylon, and the other, called direct dye, will work on cotton, but not nearly as well as fiber reactive dye. (It continues to bleed dye every time you wash it, forever! Fiber reactive dye doesn't do that.) If you use all-purpose dye, you should discuss this in your project write-up. It might be simpler to express-order some fiber reactive dye, such as Procion MX dye, from ProChem (see "Sources for supplies"), or call around your local fabric stores to see if anyone sells Dylon Cold Water dye, which is also made up of fiber reactive dye. Make sure it says Cold water! Dylon also sells all-purpose dye under the name of Dylon Multi-Purpose dye. If you do use all-purpose dye, follow the instructions for "How to Tie Dye with all-purpose Dye" or ProChem's "Immersion Dyeing using Diazol Direct Dyes".

Message: I spotted a cream colored garment of 65% Polyester and 35% Cotton. In so doing the spot turned white. May I bleach the entire garment so that it will turn white? Thank you for your attention to my dilemma.

No, it would not be wise to treat your 65% polyester garment with bleach. Chlorine bleach tends to damage polyester badly, producing an unattractive permanent yellowing. There is nothing that can be done to remove the yellowing.

The best thing to do would be to try to find a fabric marker or permanent marker to try to fill in the spot. It can be difficult to find an exact match, however. Your garment may be ruined.

The retouched spot will be much less noticeable if you use the garment as a canvas for iron-on designs you create with disperse dye paints (available from ProChem) or disperse dye crayons (available as Fabric Crayons from many crafts and fabric stores). See "Dyeing Polyester with Disperse Dyes".

It might also be possible to use Low Water Immersion Dyeing to dye the portion of the fiber that is made of cotton. (Since the garment has a lot of polyester, the results will be pastel in color.) While a single smooth color would leave the spot visible as a lighter area, a mottled multi-color dyeing can cover up imperfections rather well.

> Name: Olga
> Message: Is it possible to paint an upholstered chair? If so, how can I do it? Have an old upholstered chair that needs a fresher look. Made slip cover for it but like to know if is possible to paint it.

This question is answered on my web page, "Can furniture be dyed successfully?", which is in the FAQ section of my website, and Scarlet Zebra's page of instructions for "Painting Upholstered Furniture".

My daughter (5) has a beautiful, dark navy-blue wool Rothschild coat (we call it the Madeline Coat) that she loves. She's getting too big for it and I've given up trying to find a bigger one (even on ebay). I've made enough clothes for her to know I can re-create the coat myself, but I couldn't find a source of wool that felt right...until recently, when I found some wool blankets that are just about perfect. They're 80% wool and 20% "man-made fiber" - whatever that means. The problem is that they're RED - great big, screaming, holy-crap-you-gotta-be-kidding-me RED. The kind of RED you can't just dye to a dark navy blue. So here's the question: Can I bleach or otherwise remove the color from this stuff, so that I can THEN dye in the darker color?

Discharging dye from wool is not likely to be successful, and it involves some rather nasty chemicals, possibly even worse than chlorine bleach. Regular chlorine bleach would destroy the wool. ProChem has instructions for "Bleaching Wool using Hydrogen Peroxide", but I suspect that your red dye might resist this process. Many dyes cannot be discharged at all. You could ask for a test scrap before buying the wool, or purchase a quarter of a yard, and try the process to see if it works.

You should, however, be able to overdye the red to a very dark purple or black. You just need to use a lot of dye. For wool, I recommend the Lanaset black, also sold under the brand names of Sabraset and Telana. To counter the red, you might want to mix green in with the black, but in any case, use a lot of dye.

The "man made fiber" might be nylon, which can be dyed exactly like wool, or polyester or acetate, which cannot.

It is a much better idea to dye wool before sewing, rather than afterwards, as shrinkage is likely to be an issue. For ease in handling, you could cut out the general shapes of the pattern pieces, if you allow enough extra to make up for shrinkage. You must also be careful to avoid excessive agitation and sudden temperature changes, as these can cause the wool to felt.

Lanaset/Sabraset dye can be purchased from Pro Chemical and Dye, as well as other dye companies. Follow their instructions for "Immersion Dyeing using Sabraset/Lanaset Dyes". You can buy the other chemicals required from the same company from which you purchase your dye.

Message: hi..I have some dingy looking yellow curtains I want to turn into white curtains...would rather not use bleach..as in Javex...I noticed 2 different rit products in the walmart for whites..wasn't sure which to buy..please help..

What fiber are the curtains made of? It is critical to avoid the use of bleach on synthetic fibers.

The Rit Dye company provides a very useful laundry tips web page. This should help you to choose which product you need.

Message: I need to know tips for dyeing a thick dark green sports sweat shirt. I accidently used a bleach to remove a stain and it turn portions of the sweatshirt a lighter color, two tone. I would like to know if using a dark green powder Rit dye will help eliminate the two tone appearance.

No. As explained on my web page, "How can I fix the bleach spots on my favorite clothing?", dye is transparent, so any spot that you dye will continue to be lighter in color than the surrounding areas. You will usually do best to use a fabric marker to color in the lighter spots before dyeing.

What is the sweatshirt made of? Polyester cannot be easily dyed at home. Cotton, or fabric that is at least 50% cotton, can be dyed with all-purpose dye, but results are usually more satisfactory with a fiber reactive dye, such as Procion MX dye. Fiber reactive dye is much more colorfast, and usually brighter in color, than all-purpose dye, when used on cotton. All-purpose dye is better for use on wool and nylon, and in any case is best used at a temperature of 190 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. You cannot use all-purpose dye at tap water temperatures, unless you do not care whether or not the dye will wash out when the garment is laundered. All-purpose dye tends to bleed a little in the laundry with every washing, for the life of the garment.

For a list of different companies that sell fiber reactive dye, see "Sources for Dye Supplies".

Message: Help! How do I dye fabric with a lot (about 13-15) of different shades of colour? I would like to make a quilt in various colours of brown, from cream to a fairly dark brown. I do hope you can advise, and thank you for at least reading this.

This can be great fun. The easiest method (and the most fun, in my opinion) is to dye fabric in low water immersion dyeing (see "How to Do Low Water Immersion Dyeing"). Ann Johnston has a wonderful book called "Color By Accident" in which she explains in great detail how even a novice can dye fabrics in related groups of colors that she calls "color parfaits". I strongly recommend that you either purchase this book or look for it at your local public library.

Another method is to mix up several colors of dye, and then place different amounts of each dye into a number of plastic bags, so each bag contains a different mixture of colors, as in Adriene Buffington's Hand-Dyed Fabric Made Easy. This book appears to be out of print, but you could look for it at your local public library, or order it from an online used book seller.

The type of dye to use, in either case, is cool water fiber reactive dye, such as Procion MX dye. You don't want to use all-purpose dye, now that you are getting serious about color. This dye is best purchased by mail-order; see my list of different companies that sell dye, "Sources for Dyeing Supplies".

I am trying to dye my wheel chair wheels from white to blue and or red.They are a obviously a SOLID nylon material (as opposed to a fabric like wool or cotton).And I am wondering if this would be possible w/ the all purpose dye.Would I need to boil them or use hot water?Should I prep them in any way?They are 24" and weigh about 5 lbs give or take.About how much dye would I need for a set?And is it even possible?Thank you so much for your time,

I have not dyed solid nylon myself, but I have heard of it many times. There are web sites detailing the dyeing of nylon discs and nylon lacrosse sticks. Some of these ideas may be useful to you.

Acid dye works well on nylon, and all-purpose dye includes acid dye as one of its components, so all-purpose dye can work. As far as the dye is concerned, the hotter the water, the better, but you do NOT want to risk deforming your wheels! I would be afraid to boil them. In general, nylon may do best below 185 degrees Fahrenheit.

You need to prepare the wheels by getting them as clean as possible, since any dirt or oil will repel the dye.

It is a lot easier to add more dye in a second process than to remove it. I doubt that you will be able to lighten the color at all after you have achieved it. You could try immersing the wheels just briefly in a dyebath made with hot water and one packet of all-purpose dye. Check the temperature of the dyebath, and the amount of water you dissolve a packet of dye in, and how many minutes you leave it in, so as to be able to reproduce it again for a second wheel. You might not want to simply reuse the dyebath for a second wheel, because the dyebath will be weaker after some of the dye has been used.

Pro Chemical & Dye <http://www.prochemical.com> sells specialized acid dyes that are just for nylon and wool, and they have an excellent technical department. Perhaps you should contact them for advice, and use the dye they recommend according to their instructions.

Message: I have country blue thermal backed curtains that are 56% cotton, 44% polyester. I would really like to dye them a more neutral color like tan or taupe. My couch is olive green so they could even have a slight greenish tint if need be. Can you tell me if it is possible to dye blue to a more neutral color and if so, what color and brand might be best? Thank you for your help.

Blue is a darker color than tan. Dyes are transparent and can only add color, not remove it. It is impossible to bleach polyester, as it is permanently damaged by contact with bleach, so you will not be able to lighten the color before dyeing.

It would not be too difficult to add a greenish color to the cotton portion of the fiber in your curtains. I think that overdyeing your curtains with a yellowish brown might meet your needs, turning your curtains more of an olive green. The results might be darker than you like, however.

No easy-to-use dye will color the polyester in your curtains, but the cotton can be dyed with either fiber reactive dye or all-purpose dye. All-purpose dye is not noted for its washfastness (a little bit will bleed in every laundering), but it is easy to find and should meet your needs. You must use HOT water with all-purpose dye. If you wish to dye at room temperature or with merely warm water, you must buy some fiber reactive dye, such as Procion MX type dye; this can be mail ordered from many of the companies listed on my "Sources for Dye Supplies" page.

Message: which dyeing is good in package either dyespring or dyecone why?

You must be referring to industrial dyeing processes. I know nothing about either, and can give advice here only for artists and hobbyists. Sorry.

Name: amanda

Message: I've always loved tie-dye, but have only recently begun to make my own. What is soda ash? What does it look like? Where can I find it in the USA? Tonight I attempted the directions you have on making a peace sign by sewing, I'm waiting anxiously to see how it turned out.

Soda ash looks like a white powder, in a container labeled "soda ash" or "sodium carbonate" or "pH Up" or "pH Increaser". See the page on this subject in my FAQ, "What is soda ash, and what's it for?". You can get soda ash anywhere there's a swimming pool supply store. The FAQ section of my web site contains the answers to many such questions.

You will not be successful in tie-dyeing if you omit the soda ash when using fiber reactive dye; sodium carbonate, or dye activator, is necessary to allow the dye to react with the fabric. If you did in fact use dye activator, and just didn't know it was the same thing as soda ash, then you're in luck, and all should be well.

Don't use all-purpose dye, such as Rit, for tie-dyeing cotton. You will be unsuccessful in tie-dyeing if, instead of fiber reactive dye, you use the cold-water method with all-purpose dye. All-purpose dye requires that you simmer your fabric in a hot dyebath. It's more trouble, but all-purpose dye is only temporary unless you immerse your fabric with the dye in near-boiling water, preferably for half an hour or longer. You should not use your kitchen cooking pots for this heating step, however, because a pot that has been used for dyeing with all-purpose dye should never be used for preparing food. See the instructions for how to tie-dye with all-purpose dye.

Fiber reactive dye is the best type of dye to use for tie-dyeing cotton. One good brand is Procion MX dye, available at most of the dye supply companies listed on my "Sources for Dye Supplies" page.

If the tie-dyeing project you just completed does not work out, please don't give up. All you have to do is get a good tie-dye kit. You can buy one at any good crafts store—look for a tie-dye kit made by Jacquard, Dylon, Rainbow Rock, or Tulip—or mail-order a tie dye kit from any good dye supplier. Popular US sources for tie dye kits include Grateful Dyes, PRO Chemical & Dye, and Dharma Trading Company. That will give you both high-quality fiber reactive dye, and soda ash to use with it. You also might want to practice with easier designs such as a spiral before tackling the more difficult peace sign design, if your first try doesn't work out. (If it does work, send me a picture!) See How to Dye with Fiber Reactive Dye for more information.

(Please help support this web site. Thank you.)

[Updated June 8, 2008.]

> Name: Amanda
> Message: Hi there
> How can I dye my living room carpet - part polyester

For information on how to dye polyester, please see "Dyeing Polyester with Disperse Dyes".

Polyester can be dye-painted with iron-ons made with disperse dye, or immersion dyed by boiling it with disperse dye and a chemical carrier. Neither technique seems very adaptable to dyeing a carpet. Carpet dyeing is best done by professionals for two reasons: the fibers are often synthetic, and any uneveness of color is apt to be a problem.

Name: evelyn
Message: Hello, I sincerely hope I'm not asking a question you covered in your site. I did do a search for 'dyeing mixed yarns' and nothing came up. I have a sweater I love in an ivory color that has unfortunately received a couple of stains. It is of 62% merino wool, 15% cashmere, 13% angora rabbit hair and 10% nylon. Can I successfully dye this a dark color - brown, gray or black? And, if so, what dye and methods do you reccommend? Procion or other brands? Please help if you can. Thank you in advance for a response either way.

This is a good combination of fibers for dyeing. Every one of them - wool, cashmere, angora rabbit hair and nylon - is best dyed with acid dyes or Lanaset dyes. This means that you can dye them all in a single step. One major problem would be if the conditions of dyeing (particularly heat) were to lead to shrinkage. You might have to give your newly dyed sweater away to someone who is smaller than you! It's generally not a good idea to garment-dye wool, for this reason. Another problem is that you must dye it a very dark color, with a lot of dye, if you want the stains to blend in, as dye is transparent, so stains remain darker than the surrounding area even after dyeing. Even when heating wool to be quite hot, it is essential to avoid sudden temperature changes or excessive agitation, or felting may occur.

The very best dye for dark black on all of these fibers, wool, cashmere, angora rabbit hair and nylon, is the Lanaset black. Note that Lanaset dye is also sold under the names Sabraset and Telana; it's the same exact thing, though. Probably these dyes would also be the best for other dark colors, though you can also use any acid dye. (Procion MX dye can be used with acid, instead of soda ash, as an acid dye, but mixing it to get brown black or grey on wool can be a real challenge, as mixtures come out different colors on wool than on cotton.) The Lanaset line of dyes is a combination of premetallized acid dyes and fiber reactive dyes designed for use on wool. See towards the bottom of my page on Dyes for Protein Fibers.

Good North American sources for the Lanaset/Sabraset/Telana line of dyes include ProChem (in the US) and Maiwa Handprints (in Canada). See my list of companies that are good Sources for Dyes Supplies. You could find additional sources by doing a web search for "Lanaset" or "Telana".