Name: Carl
Message: I think I've viewed all your very informative comments on fixing colors on cotton fabric. All your answers seem to begin with the assumption that the garment was purchased from a store or created by someone with a phone or email address who can provide an answer to the type of dye used. I just returned from Guatemala with some cotton shirts and scarves created by the indigenous weavers. The colors on these articles are brilliant and I'd like to maintain their look as much as practical. Do you have any feedback or experience as to what types of dyes are used by indigenous Guatemalan weavers? I'm guessing you've never had this question before... Thanks.

No, I get asked all the time how to fix dyes on tourist items purchased in Guatemala, India, Mexico or other countries, which depends totally on the question of exactly what dye was used, but there is no good answer.

Many people imagine that indigenous weavers use natural dyes, but often, in fact, they use synthetic dyes, often inadequately labeled . An individual may not even know what kind of dye he or she is using, or have any idea of how to use it correctly! Hot water dye used in cool water, or fiber reactive dye used without a high pH fixative such as washing soda, will just wash out. So will many natural dyes, especially if not mordanted correctly. If you don't know what kind of dye was used, you cannot know whether there's any hope of fixing it to make it more permanent.

If the problem is that the dye is not very washfast, but it's washfast enough to allow at least one immersion, you can try Retayne or a similar product, as explained on "Is there any way to "set" dye in purchased clothing?". This is the best approach if they items seem okay for now. You can buy Retayne by mail-order from any good dye supplier (see Sources for Supplies). If the item cannot even be immersed once without the dye running, then don't ever wash it, just hang it on your wall as an objet d'art.

If the problem is crocking, which means rubbing off onto other clothing, furniture, etc., when dry, then there is nothing that can be done to fix the dye. The best you can hope for is to wash it separately until enough of thew dye is removed to make it safe for your surroundings. Crocking is a common problem with indigo; indigo must be applied in repeated weak dippings, but those who are lazy, or don't know how to use it, or who actually like blue skin (yes, there are cultures which prize blue skin!) will often use a single strong dipping, resulting in dye that ruins nearly everything it touches.

Washing in hot water with detergent is the best way to remove excess dye. Washing in cool water helps to avoid removing it (so there is less dye transfer between garments in the laundry, in cool water).