Name: Jennifer
Message: I have an oyster-colored raw silk dress that I'd like to dye a chocolate brown. I've always heard that getting silk wet will ruin it. Do you have experience dyeing this type of material? Any suggestions?

What did the women of Asia do with their silk garments in the millennia before dry-cleaning was invented? Silk is quite washable unless the manufacturers have done something to make it otherwise, such as by using water-soluble finishes or dyes, or sewing with thread or linings that will shrink differently than the silk. (Lined garments are almost never washable.)

If you are willing to take the risk, hand-wash the dress in cool water with a mild soap. If you are not willing to try this, do not even consider dyeing it. If a dress is truly not washable, it cannot be dyed, even by professionals. If the dress does survive washing, you may feel free to dye it.

Washable silk can be dyed at room temperature with cool water fiber reactive dyes, such as Procion MX dye. It can also be dyed in the presence of heat, using acid dyes. Acid dyes are better for slick, stiff, shiny silks, but the heat may shrink and ruin the garment. Fiber reactive dyes may reduce the shine and stiffness of some silks, but this is not likely to be a problem with raw silk, and the ability to avoid heat is advantageous. Do not use all-purpose dye without steaming or boiling the dress in the dye; if you wish to dye your dress at room temperature, you must purchase the right type of dye.

The easiest way to dye a silk dress a solid color, if it is washable, and if you have a sufficiently delicate cycle on your washing machine, is to follow the instructions for Procion MX dye, which you may find in "How can I dye clothing or fabric in the washing machine?". The easiest way to dye it an interesting crystal pattern is by low water immersion.

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