Name: Debbie
Message: I am working on a project for our state's Centenial. Another teacher that I work with does a project using dirt from all over the state. I would like to use the different dirt to dye fabric for a quilt. The fabric needs to be cotton but it will probably not be washed often or ever but I would still like for it to be somewhat colorfast. Any suggestions? Do I need to know the makeup of the dirt to determine the best way to dye the fabric?

Dyeing cotton with dirt tends to result in much blander, paler colors than the color of the dirt, since most of the dirt tends to wash out. Your quilt might not have a problem, though, since it may be able to escape being washed.

Most dirt is colored with iron. The iron in red dirt is hematite, while that in yellow dirt is limonite. The ultimate color obtained by dyeing cotton with iron is, typically, a buff color. The color obtained by using dirt as a true dye will be less exciting than that which you could obtain by using it as a pigment in a homemade fabric paint, since using it as a pigment does not require the iron to bind to the fiber using its own chemical properties.


The method that I have been thinking about, but which I still have not tried, is to buy some colorless fabric paint binder, such as Neopaque clear Flowable
Extender (you can order this stuff from MisterArt.com or from Dharma Trading Company). Mixing different dirts with this clear fabric paint binder will turn it into a fabric paint. It will take a little trial and error to see how much dirt to add to a given volume of colorless binder. Depending on the thickness with which you apply your fabric paint, you may be able to cover anywhere from 4 to 15 square feet with one 250 ml jar of your paint. The thinner application will have a softer feel, but less intense colors. The paint will produce a more dye-like effect when applied to wet fabric. Fabric paint binder should be easier than other methods you might use to color your cotton with dirt. You will need to heat-set the fabric with an iron, after the paint has dried, to melt the binders that will permanently attach your dirt pigments to the fabric; follow the heat-setting instructions provided by the paint extender's manufacturer. One method you could use for applying the paint would be to dilute the paint with a little water, soak small pieces of fabric in it, and then squeeze the fabric out before allowing it to dry. Another is to stretch the fabric out, moisten it with a spray bottle of water, and apply the paint with a brush.


A more traditional method, depending on your traditions, is the Japanese method of using freshly homemade soy milk as a binder to "glue" your dirt pigment to the fabric. This will be quite a bit more trouble and will not stand up to modern washing methods, not that that's likely to be a problem for your quilt. You can find instructions for this method, and links to buy materials, at Table Rock Llamas.

Before using either of the above methods to prepare your own fabric paint, you should crush and sift your dirt samples to make sure that the size of the particles is small and uniform. Larger chunks of dirt will have more difficulty in adhering to the fabric, regardless of the convenience of the fabric paint binder. The smallest particle size you can obtain will be best. I would advise the use of a mortar and pestle to crush lumps of thoroughly dried dirt.

I would very much like to learn about your experiences in making this quilt.


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