Name: Ellen
Message: I had an old light cotton white Indian dress that became spotted over the years.  I recently dyed it yellow with hot water and saffron.  It looks beautiful but I need to set it so that I don't turn yellow when I wear it.  What do you suggest?

Natural saffron, whose active ingredient is the chemical crocin, from the stigmas of the saffron crocus, is a substantive dye that can be used on cotton and linen as well as silk and wool. Unlike most natural dyes, it does not require a mordant, because it is a direct dye. The size of the molecule itself helps it to associate with the cellulose fiber. Like the dye found in turmeric, saffron as a dye color is called fugitive, which means that it will not last long, so it must be redyed regularly. The monks in Tibet who wear saffron robes dyed with turmeric are said to redye their robes every year. Saffron is very expensive, but turmeric is an inexpensive natural substitute.

Before wearing, rinse the dress in cool water only, to help remove excess dye that would rub off on you. It would be best to avoid sitting on light-colored upholstered furniture while wearing this dress, until you are sure that it is safe. 

To extend the life of this particular dyeing, dry your dress indoors after laundering, and store it in the dark, because bright light, particularly sunlight, may cause it to fade more quickly. Wash by hand in cool water only, or dry clean. Hot water will tend to wash out direct dyes. Treatment with a commercial chemical cationic dye fixative such as Retayne will probably increase washfastness significantly, but may impair lightfastness. Other so-called fixatives such as vinegar and salt will not help your dress at all. The way that saffron is encouraged to bond to the fiber is by soaking the saffron and fiber together in hot water, as you have already done.





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